Burberry's 170 Years: London Sfilata Reinvents British Style for a New Era
For 170 years, Burberry has stood as an undisputed pillar of British fashion, synonymous with enduring elegance and quintessential outdoor style. Yet, as the Autumn/Winter 2026/2027
sfilata Burberry trench collection premiered at London Fashion Week, Creative Director Daniel Lee proved that heritage is not merely to be celebrated, but to be actively re-examined and dynamically reimagined. This landmark collection was a powerful homage to the brand's storied past, deeply rooted in London's spirit, while simultaneously charting an exciting, contemporary course for its future.
Lee's vision for Burberry's 170th anniversary was clear: to return to the brand's foundations, infusing iconic pieces with a modern sensibility that resonates with today's discerning consumer. The show itself was an immersive journey, a theatrical experience that cemented Burberry's identity firmly within the urban and natural landscapes of Britain. It was more than a fashion show; it was a cultural statement, redefining what British luxury means for a new generation.
A Journey Through London's Soul: The Show's Immersive Settings
Daniel Lee's staging of the A/W 2026/2027 collection was as impactful as the garments themselves, designed to create an immersive experience that transported guests deep into the heart of London. One setting famously recreated the dramatic backdrop of the Tower Bridge, complete with dark, glossy asphalt and strikingly realistic puddles. This meticulous attention to detail evoked the raw, atmospheric beauty of the city, turning a mere runway into a powerful narrative tool. The intention was to immerse guests in the very essence of London, a city that has always been intrinsically linked to Burberry's identity.
This urban realism was complemented by another compelling setting at Perks Field in Kensington Gardens. Here, under a tent boasting a meticulously painted cloudy sky, Lee invoked "England outdoors – that of festivals." The chosen soundtrack, a bold score by Black Sabbath, further underscored this robust, almost rebellious sense of Britishness. It wasn't about simply mimicking a rave, but about measuring how much of Burberry's distinguished heritage could embrace an image of domesticated rebellion, relevant to the present. By placing the collection within these distinctly British backdrops – from the gritty elegance of Tower Bridge to the pastoral-yet-edgy spirit of the festival scene – Lee firmly anchored Burberry in its origins, celebrating Britishness not as a mere postcard cliché, but as a living, breathing infrastructure.
The Iconic Trench: A Legacy Reimagined for the Modern Era
At the absolute core of the Autumn/Winter 2026/2027 collection stood the undisputed hero: the
sfilata Burberry trench coat. For 170 years, this garment has been a symbol of protection, practicality, and undeniable style. Daniel Lee, however, took this icon and brilliantly reinterpreted it, demonstrating a commitment to "disturbing the archive" rather than simply celebrating it. His trenches were versatile, shedding their traditional weight to "slip" effortlessly onto the wearer, suitable for a myriad of occasions.
Lee's design philosophy questioned, "What clothes really make sense?" The answer lay in trench coats that could transition seamlessly from the formality of a charity gala or a film premiere to the vibrant energy of a nightclub. This collection offered a spectrum of trench interpretations, from classic forms to more avant-garde iterations, including a standout "tarot trench" and others that played with texture and proportion. The emphasis was on adaptability, on creating pieces that empower the wearer to navigate diverse urban landscapes with confidence and style.
The trench, under Lee's direction, ceased to be merely outerwear; it became a central organizer for the entire collection, dictating a balanced approach to the rest of the ensemble. It was a testament to how a heritage piece, when viewed through a fresh creative lens, can retain its essence while feeling entirely new and relevant. For a deeper dive into how this iconic piece was reimagined, explore
Daniel Lee's Burberry: The Iconic Trench Reimagined for A/W 2026/2027. To understand the collection's seamless transition from grand events to casual evenings, read
From Tower Bridge to Nightclub: Burberry's Versatile Trench Collection.
Redefining British Style: Beyond the Classic Check
While the
sfilata Burberry trench was the collection's beating heart, Daniel Lee's vision extended far beyond this single garment, redefining the broader aesthetics of British style. The iconic Burberry check, for instance, was reimagined as a dynamic surface rather than a mere descriptive pattern. It appeared stretched, dilated, even vibrating on metallic knit mini-dresses, demonstrating how heritage motifs could be re-energized for a contemporary audience.
The collection showcased a fascinating interplay of typologies that corrected and complemented each other:
- Sharp Tailoring: Slim, cigarette-cut suits, exceptionally thin ties, and shirts precisely anchored at the waist offered a sleek, refined silhouette.
- Polished Bohemian: Contrasting this sharpness were bohemian elements, but with a refined edge – crochet pieces adorned with mirrors, coordinated washed denim, and supple leather fringes. These pieces tapped into a desire for tactility and texture without ever slipping into costume, thanks to carefully controlled proportions.
The colour palette was another striking departure from the expected. Lee introduced "controlled acids" – vibrant waterproof yellows, electric greens, and bold touches of pink – designed to "strip away the habitual beige" often associated with the brand. These colours added a jolt of modernity and playfulness, perfectly encapsulating the energy of London's nightlife and the festival scene. More declarative signs, such as a "flower power" T-shirt with the logo, acted as exclamation points, steering the narrative towards pop cultural citation while always maintaining a focus on proportion and function.
The overall message was crystal clear: Burberry is aligning its cultural narrative with concrete utility, speaking to a sophisticated young audience, but not teenagers, and solidifying its industrial path. This collection asserted Britishness as a practical, dynamic infrastructure, not just a nostalgic image, delivering a compelling vision for the brand's enduring reign.
Practical Styling Tips for Your Burberry Trench
Embracing the versatility of the Daniel Lee-era Burberry trench means understanding how to style it for any occasion. Here are some practical tips to make the most of this iconic piece:
- Effortless Elegance for Day: For a classic yet modern daytime look, layer your trench over a crisp white shirt, tailored trousers, and minimalist sneakers. Cinch the belt for a defined silhouette, or wear it open for a more relaxed vibe.
- Urban Chic for Evening: Elevate your trench for evening by pairing it with a sleek slip dress or a tailored jumpsuit. Add heeled ankle boots or stilettos, and complete the look with a structured clutch. Consider a trench in a vibrant colour from the new palette for an extra pop.
- Layering with Intent: The trench is a master of layering. In cooler weather, wear it over a fine-knit sweater or a light blazer. For an edgy touch, experiment with unexpected layers like a metallic knit top peeking out.
- Accessorize Smartly: A silk scarf in a complementary colour or a reinterpreted Burberry check can add personality. Chunky jewellery, statement sunglasses, or a contemporary leather bag can further personalize your trench.
- Embrace the "Slipping" Effect: Daniel Lee's trenches are designed to feel light. Don't be afraid to let it drape and flow. The beauty is in its effortless movement and adaptability, allowing it to "slip" seamlessly into your personal style.
In celebrating its 170th anniversary, Burberry, under the astute direction of Daniel Lee, has not merely looked back but has boldly surged forward. The Autumn/Winter 2026/2027 London
sfilata Burberry trench collection was a masterclass in reinterpreting heritage for a new age, firmly cementing the brand's place at the forefront of contemporary luxury fashion. By grounding the show in London's vibrant spirit and reinventing its most iconic garments, Burberry demonstrated that true British style is not static; it is a dynamic, evolving force, ready to embrace the future while honouring a legendary past.
